In 1990, I had an opportunity to travel to Kyushu on an office trip with the education office where I worked. We traveled all over Kyushu and one of my fondest memories was touring Kumamoto and seeing the lovely castle and castle grounds.
Since that time, and now that I live in Kyushu, I have made multiple trips back to Kumamoto because it is another place I like to take visitors from home when they come to Japan.
Kumamoto offers visitors much to see and do. As an historian, I especially love how abundant the history and culture are in Kumamoto.
The main attraction in Kumamoto is, of course, the beautiful and well-preserved castle that looms large over the city. Sadly, the castle was nearly lost on April 16, 2016, when a strong 7.0 earthquake shook Kumamoto and heavily damaged the castle and its many attached buildings and walls.
I vividly remember that earthquake because it was felt all the way on the other side of the island where I live. I had just returned to Japan after spending a year in the U.S. on sabbatical at Ball State University. I had been invited to the U.S. Consulate in Fukuoka City to attend a reception and I was on my way home on an express train when suddenly — everyone’s phone alarms went off simultaneously and the train came to a screeching halt.
In Japan, the earthquake warning system is quite advanced and seconds before a big earthquake hits, an alarm is sent out as a warning to take cover. Just a moment later, the train began to shake and even though it lasted for just a few seconds, it felt like an eternity.
Everyone on the train knew that a serious earthquake had occurred somewhere relatively nearby. After being stuck there for nearly 30 minutes on the elevated tracks, we received the all clear to continue on as the tracks on our train line were undamaged from the earthquake.
Within minutes, numerous news alerts of the massive earthquake began to appear on our newsfeeds. All of the passengers just sat there in stunned silence.
No matter how long I live in Japan, I will never get used to earthquakes. The sudden power that is unleashed without warning, and the swaying movement, coupled with the feeling of helplessness in that instant is something that this Hoosier boy can never get used to.
This particular earthquake was a strike-slip faulting at a very shallow depth, hence why it was felt so strongly. There were 277 people killed directly from the earthquake and disaster-related causes from injuries aggravated from earthquake related illnesses. Tens of thousands of people had to be evacuated because their homes were in danger of collapsing or were destroyed.
The photos of the castle after the earthquake showed the damage to the beautiful castle walls that are one of the most spectacular aspects of Kumamoto Castle.
Many of the stone walls and the turret, as well as the foundation, were severely damaged. All of the huge stones were relocated and stored for the huge renovation project that began soon after the initial shock of the earthquake had passed.
Part of the renovation was completed in January of 2021, but the rest of the renovation won’t be finished until 2037. I remember one photo that showed the entire corner of the castle being held up by a single stack of stones from the wall. It looked like it was precariously teeter-tottering, and surely a powerful aftershock would have made the whole thing tumble down (photo).
I am happy to report that the castle is well on its way to being preserved and brought back to its original splendor. When I visited last time in January of 2023, the main parts of the castle had been finished and it was open for business. Some of the outer walls are still being repaired and these will take until 2037 to finally complete (photo).
Kumamoto Castle is quite majestic and is the heart and soul of the city. Construction began on it in 1467, and the craftsmanship and intricate design is what sets it apart from other castles in Japan. In the spring, visitors enjoy a beautiful display of cherry blossoms that ring the castle grounds allowing people to stroll and enjoy this beautiful natural display.
Another must see area in Kumamoto is the impressive and meticulously kept Suizenji Seishuen Garden complex that was built by a well-known Kumamoto family called the Hosokawa family. Construction of the gardens began in 1632 and the site was chosen because it had a natural spring with high quality water that is great for making traditional green tea, which can be partaken in the lovely thatched-roof teahouse on the grounds.
I visited the gardens in the winter, and while not blooming with flowers and trees, it still offered a unique and worthwhile experience. It is well worth having tea inside the teahouse as it offers a lovely view of the pond and garden. The gardens also boast its own shrine called Izumi Shrine, and some of the Hosokawa family members’ remains are enshrined there.
One of the most significant aspects of the gardens is a miniature Mount Fuji that juts upward from the center of the garden (photo).
Today, Kumamoto is a modern, bustling city that has ample opportunities for shopping and fine dining. It is easy to get around in with buses and trams that will take you to all the places you want to go.
One of the most recognizable aspects of Kumamoto is its very much adored mascot, Kumamon. This big black bear is probably the most well-known mascot (yuru-chara in Japanese) in Japan -- nearly every prefecture and big city has some sort of character mascot (photo).
Kumamon was created by the Kumamoto Prefectural government in 2010 as a way to attract tourists, and it worked!
The name “Kumamon” is a play on words using part of the name of Kumamoto, “kuma” which means “bear.” It is considered to be too cute for words, and it quickly became a huge hit amongst Japanese people. Young and old alike love this mascot and can’t get enough of it. Copious amounts of Kumamon-related goods can be found everywhere.
Like I mentioned, it is a beloved character all over Japan, and not just in Kumamoto. While it may not be as widely known or as popular as Hello Kitty, Kumamon certainly does hold his own in the mascot department.
